Bag It Up: The It Bag is Back

Yes , the It Bag is back — and it’s carrying more than just your keys

Balenciaga’s slouchy City. Mulberry’s cult Roxanne. The beloved Alexa. The It Bags of the early 2000s are back on our radar — and our arms. With resale prices soaring and fashion leaning into statement accessories once more, it’s time to unzip the past and carry it into 2025.

The It Bag Comeback: Why Everyone’s Talking About Arm Candy Again

As Nicola reached behind her at Pret for napkins, her handbag flopped casually onto the table. I clocked it immediately. Soft leather, chunky hardware, and that signature shape. “Is that real?” I asked, nodding toward the unmistakable Balenciaga City Bag. “Yup,” she grinned. “Probably the most expensive item I own.”

And just like that, 2005 called — but in the best possible way.

The Balenciaga City – once the arm-candy of every early-2000s It girl from Nicole Richie to Kate Moss – is booming again. Still a top-seller for the brand and now affectionately dubbed “neo-vintage,” the City’s return is part of a bigger fashion swing: the comeback of the It Bag.

And it’s not just Balenciaga. Mulberry’s Roxanne – all buckles and British attitude – is a hot ticket on resale platforms. The Alexa, reissued by Mulberry in 2020, continues to fly in new colourways and eco-leathers.

Fashion Nostalgia Meets Investment Worth

It got me thinking about my own old flame – Walter, a tan Mulberry briefcase I bought as a “well done me” in 2008. These days he lives in my husband’s office cupboard. But a quick Google told me he’s worth more now than I paid. Not just sentimentally. Actually, financially.

For those of us who came of age during the heyday of Grazia’s Bag Watch and Vogue’s It Bag Index, this revival hits differently. We didn’t just lust after these bags – we saved for them. We queued. We wore them religiously, then sheepishly shelved them as minimalism took over.
Now? It’s our time again.

Why the It Bag Matters in 2025

This isn’t just fashion nostalgia. It’s a return to character, craft, and cultural clout. In a sea of pared-back, logo-free accessories, the bags that once defined a generation feel bold, personal — even joyful. Resale platforms like Vestiaire Collective and The RealReal report surging demand for Y2K icons:

A well-kept Mulberry Roxanne? £800+

The Alexa in classic oak leather? Almost always sold out

Even the once-divisive Chloé Paddington is climbing in value again

While Gen Z might be fuelling the trend, Gen X are the ones who already own the icons — tucked away, ready to be loved again.

Designers Are Watching Too

Fashion’s archiving era is well underway. And brands are cashing in with smart reissues:

Mulberry’s Alexa, reimagined with sustainability in mind

Gucci’s Jackie and Fendi’s Baguette, back in multiple editions

Bottega Veneta’s Knot, reintroduced with quiet flair

These aren’t fads. These are fashion flexes rooted in identity and intention. If you’ve got one hiding in a cupboard, now’s the time to bring it back out.

Because some icons — like Nicola’s Balenciaga or my dear Walter — only get better with age.

The It Bag Enigma: Why Creating a Modern Classic Is So Difficult

Creating a bona fide It Bag has become fashion's ultimate white whale. The early 2000s were fertile ground for arm-candy obsession: paparazzi culture was peaking, and celebs were unofficial brand ambassadors. But the landscape has changed.

The algorithm killed the cult. Pieces go viral too fast to build mystique.

We’re over shouty logos. Quiet luxury is louder than ever.

Resale rules the market. Consumers want proof of longevity.

Creative burnout is real. Churn rates at luxury houses mean fewer long-term visions.

Still, a few recent It Bags have managed to cut through:

Post-2010 It Bag Successes:

Loewe Puzzle (2014): Architectural, wearable, and game-changing.

Chloé Drew (2014): Peaked during the Instagram street style boom.

Bottega Veneta Pouch (2019): A buttery-soft hit that sparked a frenzy.

Dior Saddle (reissued 2018): A nostalgia-fuelled revival that stuck.

Future Icons: The Bags Worth Buying Now

Want to invest in a modern classic before it hits icon status? These are the ones to watch:

The Row – Margaux

Understated, impeccably crafted, and quietly powerful. The Margaux is minimalism with Birkin energy — already beloved by insiders.

Phoebe Philo – XL Cabas / Small Kit / Soft Curve

Her debut namesake line is ultra-limited but poised for legacy. The XL Cabas is the frontrunner — structured, sculptural, and already commanding interest on resale platforms.

Mulberry – Lana / Pimlico / Alexa Reissue

Lana brings a sculptural edge, while Pimlico is a timeless tote in the making. Mulberry’s Alexa continues to evolve, staying relevant through thoughtful tweaks.

Celine – Triomphe Shoulder Bag

Polish meets recognisable design. The Triomphe is subtle, grown-up, and everywhere without being obvious.

Bottega Veneta – Andiamo

Plaited, practical, and poised. The Andiamo is less viral than The Pouch but more enduring.

Miu Miu – Wander (especially in matelassé)

Playful and nostalgic with edge — the Wander could be the Paddington of the 2020s.