Hood speaks to the Scottish star of Netflix's 'Next in Fashion', designer Hayley Scanlan

Netflix has bestowed us with many a binge-worthy series. Still, none have been quite as addictive as Next in Fashion, which sees its contestants battle against the clock (and one another) to create jaw-dropping outfits.

The show may be bolstered by style gurus Alexa Chung and Queer Eye’s Tan France, who took on the roles of co-hosts and judges, but, in our eyes, the real star is Scottish contemporary womenswear designer, Hayley Scanlan.

Scanlan fought off competition from around the world to become one of the 18 hopefuls to win a life-changing cash prize and a contract with luxury fashion behemoth, Net-a-Porter.  Hailing from Dundee, she inherited her love of sewing from her gran, which would also inspire her to go on to study Textiles at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design. Since graduating in 2009, Scanlan has been very busy indeed; in 2012, she launched her namesake label, opened her own Dundee store in 2017, and even earned herself a doctorate in 2019.

But Next in Fashion? She admits it’s been her biggest challenge date. Here, Scanlan talks candidly to Hood about jetting to LA on a moment’s notice, what Alexa was really like, and the hard lessons she learnt about teamwork…

Hayley—wow! Congratulations on making the ‘Next in Fashion’ cut. What did the application process entail? 

Thank you. It's still incredibly surreal; like it didn't happen. The application process wasn't difficult for me in a technical sense, but more in an emotional sense. I questioned whether I should even be there because of the level of talent on it. It was intimidating. The Netflix casting team handpicked the contestants. Then, we flew to LA and were filtered down to the final 18 after doing interviews and a design and sewing test. 

What a whirlwind! How did it feel when you made it onto the show? 

I was so excited and felt a massive sense of accomplishment; it would've been a bummer coming to LA, leaving my two boys, and then having to go back to tell them I hadn't made the final cut. Can you imagine the flight back? I remember being so overwhelmed, and I knew my family would be so proud of me.

Talk us through your first day on set—how did it go? 

The first day was tough for everyone. We had to find our feet very quickly. Julian [Hayley's appointed teammate on the show] and I paired up only a few days before, and we had never worked together. He was my opposite in every way, and I mean that with no disrespect towards him. It just was what it was. I did, however, break down in tears after day one of filming; I told the production team I couldn't work in the partnership and that I wanted to go home as I felt none of what we were creating represented who I am. 

It certainly must have been challenging, especially as you've been working on your brand for so long. 

It was extremely frustrating and challenging for both Julian and I to work together. We didn't agree on anything, and I feel our initial desIgns were very much his style. By episode three, I realised I had to stand up for myself. As a result, Julian allowed me to have more input in the design process. We had to create a suit, and our inspiration was a modern-day homage to Elvis. With only a few hours to go, Julian still hadn't finished sewing the jacket. I had to take over, having never made a suit in my life!

Time is the most significant factor on the show, and sometimes, it's just not long enough to achieve the ideas you have in your head. But, in reality, the cast knows what happened, and it's not always how it looks on the show. Days are whittled down to a one-hour show, so nothing is as it seems.

Any negativity towards anyone who appeared on the show needs to stop as far as I'm concerned. Nor Julian or I am to blame for what would unravel; we were just extremely unsuited together—nobody is a villain! 

What was it like to work with Alexa Chung and Tan France? 

They were so lovely, really genuine, funny, and down to earth people. Alexa's style is as sharp as her wit—she knows what she's talking about. I've been a long time fan, so it was a dream to work with her. 

You were able to meet so many acclaimed designers and fashion insiders during filming—did you get starstruck? 

Oh yes! Especially with Prabal Gurung. I've always admired his work. Honestly, I was starstruck for the entire duration. I'm from Dundee, so this kind of thing doesn't happen often! 

What was the biggest highlight of the experience for you? 

Meeting brilliant people. As much as it was a competition, the experience as a whole was so rewarding. The messages of love and support I've received since the show have been unbelievable; I can't express my gratitude for them enough. It's crazy. Even though the challenges weren't 100% enjoyable or easy for me, I got to stand next to 17 of the best designers in the world and show a global audience what I taught myself to do—without being educated at a fashion school. And not many people can say that. 

What is the main takeaway you have from your time on Next In Fashion?

That I am better at what I do than I thought I was and to always stand up for what I believe. I just wish I had the opportunity to express myself and show my true potential. 

Do you think you've since evolved as a designer? 

Definitely. I feel so much more confident in the skills and talent I have, and I'm going to use this opportunity to show the world what I can do on my own! Since the series aired, I've had orders from all over the world. I've sold out of the polka dot top I wore on the show—twice! It's been such a privilege. 

Before the show, the likes of Jessie J and Little Mix had already worn your creations; is there anyone else you would love to dress? 

Oh, so many people. Debbie Harry is my all-time style icon and inspiration. She is everything.

Is it important for you to remain based in Scotland? Or has the experience tempted you to move to London, or across the pond?

For me, being a mother to my twin sons Freddie and Oscar is my most important job. I'm a family-oriented person and have been all my life. I have four sisters and we're fiercely close. Without the support of my mum, dad, and my sisters, I wouldn't have got to where I am now. Freddie and Oscar must have this support, too. So far, my base in Scotland hasn't been an issue—we ship worldwide on our website. However, if an opportunity comes up and it's the right thing to do, then who knows. My boys are my compass, though, and always will be. 

What's next for your brand? 

First of all, getting through the flood of orders that have come through since Next In Fashion aired! I'm also moving H•S to a much bigger space where I can combine my design studio and shop; that'll make life so much easier. I'm always about to the brand's spring/summer collection, but I've set my sights on starting a sewing school in Scotland, which will host workshops, which will hopefully then pop up all over the country. 

What advice would you give budding Scottish designers who want to make it in fashion? 

Stay firm to your own beliefs; design is a personal point of view, and not everyone is going to like it, but you don't have to care. Keep going, and don't ever give up! Good things come to those who work hard for it. I'm living proof.