An olfactory hangover from the Swinging Sixties, patchouli has had a bit of a bad rep for the last few decades. But hold onto your floral crown because it is back this spring and in a big way...

From Dior’s Patchouli Impérial and Bulgari’s Splendida Patchouli Tentation to Dolce and Gabbana’s Velvet Black Patchouli and Jo Loves Cobalt Patchouli & Cedar, Jo Malone Amber & Patchouli…and so many more, this much maligned perfume ingredient has had a makeover.

From the same herb family as mint, patchouli tends to create a love/hate reaction partly due to its association with hippie culture. However, it was a much loved ingredient long before the summer of love… Egypt's King Tut, is said to have arranged to have ten gallons of patchouli oil buried with him in his tomb, while the Romans used it as an appetite stimulant, and early European traders gladly traded one pound of patchouli for one pound of gold.

One house is really putting it all on black this season as the hip British fragrance brand Ostens will launch not one but two patchouli fragrances this spring.

“Patchouli as an ingredient has such a polarising reputation: usually love or hate and very little in between. We loved the challenge of re-visiting and re-inventing this cult ingredient highlighting its versatility while making it modern.” Says Chris Yu co-founder of Ostens.

Christopher Yu and Laurent Delafon from Ostens

“Ostens is all about curiosity and encouraging our community to experiment, and this includes the perfumers we work with. We let them create whatever they wanted and each submission was so different – really varied and totally inspiring. We couldn’t just pick one so we chose the two we loved the most. Patchouli Heart No. I has a smoky resinous character while Patchouli Heart No. II is softer, almost suede-like,” continues Yu.

Swirls of aromatic incense and molasses-like labdanum effortlessly melt into warm, liquid treacle to create a truly unique and mouth-watering scent. Not forgetting the patchouli of the past, the liquorice notes of the Immortelle flower have been added to soften its sweetness and give Patchouli Heart No1 a slightly smoky, earthy feeling.

This is patchouli like you’ve never smelt before – fresh, aromatic and elegant. Delicate notes of Iris resin and Violet leaf add a soft, powdery, vintage-like quality that’s brightened with Ambroxan and Patchouli Heart to create a clean, aromatic fragrance with a distinctly timeless quality.

This is patchouli made modern.

Hold Onto Your Floral Crown, Patchouli is Back…