Wonder Woollens
From cosy cardigans and super soft blankets to traditional jumpers and statement slogan sweaters, knitwear is intrinsically woven into Scottish life. There is still time to catch the Dovecot Studios major exhibition, KNITWEAR: Chanel to Westwood, which showcases inspirational 20th century fashion knitwear.
Featuring over 150 inspirational knitwear pieces from the collection of fashion archivists Mark and Cleo Butterfield, highlights include 1920s Chanel jersey, vintage woollen swimwear, post-war Hollywood-style knits, 1950s cocktail sweaters, 1960s crochet, 1970s Bill Gibb, 1980s Vivienne Westwood and 1990s Julien MacDonald.
As two of the UK’s most important collectors and guardians of antique and vintage clothing and accessories, the Butterfields‘ love affair with knitwear began in the 1960s when Cleo knitted a jumper from a 1940s pattern. This kickstarted a seven-decade-long passion, resulting in a wide-ranging collection across a century’s worth of knitted fashions.
The exhibition also showcases the work of Scottish hand knitting design studio Di Gilpin who has worked with major brands to push the tradition of hand knit in new directions. Taking inspiration from artists such as Sophie Taeuber-Arp and drawing on knitwear heritage including Celtic, Fair Isle and Shoowa cloth designs, Gilpin’s work provides a snapshot of exciting and ingenious fashion. Dovecot is selecting 10 designs along with a programme of talks and demonstrations by designers including Graeme Black and La Fetiche.
Celia Joicey of Dovecot says: ‘Decade by decade, this important exhibition charts over 100 years of knitwear history exploring not only key designers but also technical innovations in hand, machine and industrial knitting. The importance of knitwear in fashion can be taken for granted, but this exhibition is an opportunity to celebrate knitwear’s distinctive place in Scotland’s cultural and economic history and to inspire future design directions.’
KNITWEAR: Chanel to Westwood charts important designers and the influence of art movements such as Modernism, Pop, Punk and Deconstruction alongside new knitwear technologies and design innovation.
The stunning Dovecot Studios makes the perfect backdrop for such an illustrious exhibition. This world-renowned tapestry studio in the heart of Edinburgh is a landmark centre for contemporary art, craft and design. Established in 1912, Dovecot continues a century-long heritage of collaboration with international artists to make exceptional handwoven tapestries and gun-tufted rugs.
KNITWEAR: Chanel to Westwood rounds off an impressive year of exhibitions and events held at Dovecot and runs till 11 March 2023.